Phillipsburg, MT – snapshots of a should-be ghost town

This small, colorful city of about 1,000 residents has won several 'awards' for its beautifully restored downtown, which was built in the mid-1800s during the height of Montana mining. The town's claim to fame from that era would probably be is its sapphires.

It could easily have become a ghost town as several former mining cities around it, but a handful of fortuitous circumstances, including being named the seat of Granite County, have saved it.

Nearby ghost town Granite was once the largest silver-producing mine in the States. I drove my RV up the twisting, muddy mountain road and probably made it at least 3/4 of the way there, but  I didn't have a map or cell phone service and it was raining and darkness was approaching, so I turned around. Part of me wanted to camp there for the night, but how creepy would it be to be stranded in or near a ghost town?

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The layout of Phillipsburg reminds me of some small European towns I've been to.

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This is the Episcopal church, built by one of four 'dueling' denominations that erected buildings within years (and blocks) of each other during the mining days.

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This window is inside the courthouse.

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In town there is a huge tourist-friendly candy store.

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View of the old bi-metallic mill, seen from the small ghost town of Kirkville.
To get a sense of the permanence of any civilization, one could sit here in complete silence and watch the clouds go by over the lifeless towers, as they have for more than a hundred years, now.

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Headed back to town from Kirkville.

‘Soldiers learn to smile and nod’

On joining the U.S. National Guard at age 25: IMG_1135

"I made pretty much every mistake that a young man can make. Joining the army restores a degree of honor to your relationship with the community around you. And it gave me a chance to go to school."

What about  his scheduled deployment to Iraq in summer 2010?

"Soldiers learn to smile and nod…
You have to have that mentality when you're in uniform.
Outside of that uniform, you're dealing with a government that has failed. Soldiers have become expendable tools. "

— Matt Getz, 28, Missoula

What’s on the wall in Missoula and ‘our last best place’

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This is a pretty cool sign. Guess real men drink Coke. It was above a steep cement stairwell that led down to a dungeon of a bar. I peaked my head in at about 6:30 p.m. on a Wednesday and saw several older guys pounding shots. To my right was a shelf of pamphlets on safe sex and various STDs. I turned around and headed for the daylight.

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No idea what the story is behind this painted over wall. I liked the propped up can of PBR. Nice touch.

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One thing I've noticed about Idaho and Montana, so far, is there seems to be lots less cops.
I have seen a handful of homeless people and lots of these kinds of signs.

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Another thing I appreciate about this state is the diversity of its license plates! This is one of my favs.

A Kenyan-bound Missoulian

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I met Meghan Chambers, 23, a couple days before she moved to Kenya to coach soccer. She is from Portland originally and migrated to Missoula years ago to attend school.

I was struck by the ease of her summery outfit, which conveys a European sensibility, yet comes across very "American" with her tan and straight, blonde hair.

She says her fashion inspiration is "sexy art" — appropriate since I met her during Friday night's art walk.

Her top is from Greece, the skirt is from Portland, the shoes from Anthropologie and the earrings are a gift from a friend.

Art walk in Missoula

Turns out this town of 60,000 or so is an excellent place to be an artist or art appreciator.

Susan Bjelland showcases the work of several local painters, sketchers, sculptors and writers at Tsunami, her eclectic toys and art store on S. Higgins Ave.

Here she's pouring a complimentary drink IMG_1001for one of the attendees of First Friday Art Walk, a monthly event where people stroll from gallery to gallery to check out what's new.

I had a Pacifico and walked up and down the streets. It felt so weird to be drinking a beer in public. I kept wanting to hide it in my purse, but apparently it's OK here? (I know in Seattle there are strict no-liquor-in-public laws.)

Anyway, I also caught a screening of "Herb & Dorothy," an indie flick about the legendary art collecting couple from Manhattan.

I am proud to say I knew who they were from reading past articles in my W Magazines, religiously.

I also visited the Missoula Art Museum, which is free and open to the public, as all galleries ought to be. Who was it who said, "art is silent where money talks" or something like that?

A magical carousel

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Caras Park near downtown Missoula really is a magical place from a kid's perspective. There is a fantastic play area, modeled after a big scary dragon; walkways studded with colored glass and plastic; a giant cement cat; swings, slides, etcetera; and this whimsical merry-go-round.

Here is the story of the carousel, because I couldn't make up something better if I tried (you should be able to click on the pic to make it full size):

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Each horse has a history. I was drawn to this particular steed, as was a little girl who'd been waiting in line. Before I had time to press my shutter button, she'd already climbed aboard to claim it for the ride.

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Orofino Tabernacle

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This is the same church I went to when I was 9!

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"I think the whole concept is wonderful of a country that was built by men of God, under God. I love this country. I grew up being taught how to love America, so I get anxious when I see what's happening… It's like watching an old friend die."

— Pastor Stanton Walker

Orofino – no longer a distant memory

My first taste of Idaho was on a family vacation to Orofino in July, 1990.
My dad took us here in his blue two-ton van without AC to visit a church that had asked him to consider becoming the pastor.

I remember the town in warm dusty colors, with a rustic feel, kind people, gravel roads that teetered on the edge of ravines, deer, snakes and howling coyotes.

Soon we headed back to our lives on a different planet in Seattle and the trip became a hazy memory.

I decided to journey back to  to see if my memories were still accurate.
For the most part, they are.

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Preserving rural America

With the loss of America’s wild terrain,IMG_0713 “I am concerned we are losing our souls.”

“…I think the most important thing we can do today is look at our landscape and figure out what matters, why it matters and how to preserve it.”

— Diane Josephy-Peavey, author and sheep and cattle rancher, at Weippe’s annual Camas Festival.