A thinking man’s game

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Sherman Tolbert, 56, (left) sets up his chess board in downtown Lawrence almost every day. "It's the conversation with people. Some of it's spiritual. Some of it's political," he says. "I like to think."

His partner for this game is Ken Soap, 29, a Lawrence DJ.

Tolbert oversees the Salvation Army's local shelter and teaches cognitive therapy to inmates." "People teach you the alphabet and they teach you social studies. But no one teaches you to look at your thinking," he says.

He voted for the first time in the November elections, though for a presidential write-in instead of Obama. "I wasn't pleased with any of the candidates." 

Taking a break to meet family

A lot of my ancestors on my mom's side are from Nebraska, and in Omaha I finally met my great uncle and aunt, Stephen and Jacquelyn Pondelis. They are 87 and 82 and have lived their whole lives here, raising four children and staying active in the Catholic church.

Steve and Jackie

Steve worked 41 years for Omaha-based Union Pacific, one of the largest railroad franchises.
He and Jackie met as teenagers roller skating, but didn't start seeing each other until Steve got back from World War II. He was drafted into the U.S. Army and served "three years, two months, six days, one hour and 10 minutes," including 13 months on the ground in the Aleutian Islands.

Though their children and extended family have all moved away, they have chosen to stay.
They drove me around the city and told me lots of interesting things about the schools and neighborhoods.
There is subdivision built in 1958, for example, where each house has a one-car garage.
Steve recalls returning from the war after telling his mother to sell his car, only to find there were long waiting lists to get a new vehicle.

Some of the houses built in the past decade have triple car garages.
I love how even domestic architecture is a history lesson.

I also learned that Jackie's dad (my great grandfather) used to grow and sell horseradish, which may partly explain why I love the stuff.

She showed me a couple places investor Warren Buffett likes to eat, including this buffet:

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Just imagine him and Bill Gates getting together to play bridge and you've got a nice little image of Omaha. The city was historically known for its railways, livestock processing plants, cornfields and other agriculture. Today the greater Omaha area is home to 838,000 residents and a small handful of fortune 500 companies.

The wonderful thing about Steve and Jackie is that they still have each other and are still in love.
She
makes him lunch every day. They have "ice cream nights" twice a week.
Steve fixes things around the house and is pretty punctual for his 10
a.m. coffee breaks.

It's been nice for me to be a part of the
normalcy while the Ford guys hack away at my RV, attempting to fix some
safety recalls.

Plus they love my crazy little pit bull. What more could you ask for?

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Midwest: ‘What recession?’

In addition to the promised gas price decreases (the cheap stuff is just $2.09 per gallon in Iowa!), I was surprised to see there is less eIMG_1944vidence of the recession as I head into America's farm land.

In the small town of Merna, Neb., I chatted with six locals during their regularly scheduled coffee break at the gas station.

"If you want jobs, you can find jobs," says Bruce Brummer (right), who runs the fertilizer plant at the local farmers' cooperative. "We're not short around here."

"There's jobs," agrees retired mechanic Dennis Worth. "But if you're used to making $30 an hour at the factory, you're not going to want $10 an hour (to do agricultural work)."

Because food is such a basic need, agriculture provides a buffer of sorts against a downturn in consumer spending.

But there are other factors at play. Farmers learn to budget wisely because their 'paycheck' comes once, annually. With equipment that can cost a quarter of a million dollars, or more, they learn important maintenance skills. And they know to diversify their crops to buffer the whims of Mother Nature. Many have alternate professions.

"People have had hard times here. They just know it's coming and they plan for it," says Brummer. "They always told us, 'It ain't what you make, it's what you save.'"

But the midwest feel the impacts in one form or another.

A July 14 article in The Omaha World-Herald ("Recession jabs at Rural Nebraska, too") cites poll statistics from a survey of 2,852 rural Nebraska households indicating there have been job losses in 11 percent of homes and about a third of surveyed households have seen work hours cut.

Omaha residents tell me the casinos over the border in Iowa, where gambling is legal, are less busy these days. They also say wages have been driven lower in some industries, as out-of-region contractors move in to take advantage of continuous growth.

So maybe it's not all rosy. Still, several restaurants were full to near capacity when I visited them during weeknights in Omaha.

St. Paul, Neb. – a car lover’s paradise

I arrived in St. Paul, Neb., a cool-seeming town of about 3,000, just in time for the Royal Coachmen car club's annual car show, drag race and street dance.

At the show I saw my first 2009 Chevrolet Camaro in the "flesh."

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GM
is an iconic American company in the news for recent financial
problems, so it's good to see they managed to release the new Camaro — promised since 2006 and the first since Chevrolet discontinued the line in 2002. With a base price of just over $23,000, it's still an everyman's sports car.

The owner of this one told me of the several Camaros he's had,
the 2009 model handles best. It's got plenty of power and gets 28 miles to
the gallon, he says. Fully loaded, he paid $45,000.

To get from the car show to the drag strip, people piled in the back of flatbed trailers being pulled by John Deere tractors.
Over bumpy fields and down the main roads we went.
I couldn't help but think, "This would never be allowed in Seattle… probably not even in Wenatchee. This is a reason to love the midwest."

The drag races were awesome. People lined up their vehicles in twos without regard for classes. Mustangs could race Mustangs, but it was more likely to see a guy in a late model BMW facing down his neighbor in a 1970s TransAm, or a Road Runner versus a pickup.

The driver on the right side of this picture spun his tires so long before the race, he left piles of smoking rubber in his wake.

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I'm sad to say I missed the burnout contest and auto parts swap meet scheduled for the next day. I left all my good parts at home, anyway.

A modern day warrior

IMG_1842 Inila-Wakan has been many places and seen many things.
He chooses makes his home on the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, where as a boy he was forcibly put through militaristic mission schools and where he's watched friends and family members struggle with stolen land, homes and hope.
Many have succumbed to alcoholism. Many  have tragically died.

A roofer by trade, his calling now is to help preserve the future of his people, through change.
Among what he'd like to see is a less centralized tribal goverment that would allow social programs to administer their own budgets.

Another issue close to his heart is the fate of the stronghold area in the surrounding badlands.
The U.S. government took control from the tribe during World War II, so the army could use the area for bombing practice.
Nearby residents were given 10 days to vacate, with the promise they could later return, says Inila-Wakan. But after the war the area, which also contains Lakota burial sites, was declared surplus and the National Park service applied for and was granted control.

A few years ago, he took a knife and a sash and staked himself to the ground in the manner of a Tokala, a traditional Lakota warrior, to prevent park service employees from traveling into the stronghold area.
A tribal police officer approached and asked him what the stake was for and what would happen if the officer knocked it down.
"It's my connection to the earth and I'm not going to allow you to go in there," Inila-Wakan explained.
He was a human anachronism.

His actions and explanations that day split tribal authorities involved. More were in favor of his position, so the park service put its plans for the area on hold.
The issue is still being met over and no ruling has been made.

A coal mine with big toys

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While in Gillette, I hopped in a van with 10 other folks for a free tour of the Eagle Butte coal mine. The tours are run by Foundation Coal West, a Baltimore, Md. company, that owns two of the 21 coal mines in Gillette. Coal from the hundred-mile seam that runs beneath and around Gillette is considered "clean" because of its low sulphur content.

Above-ground coal mining is probably not a bad gig. The work is done by mega machines and vehicles, and drivers need no prior experience. Hourly wages start at $19 and top out around $46 for drivers. The average annual wage of a Gillette mine worker is $54,800, according to a handout provided by Foundation Coal West.

This is a shovel that's used by the trucks to grab the coal. Coal weighs less than dirt and is sold to power plants for about $2 a ton.

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The trucks themselves can weigh as much as 360 tons and hold 1,800 gallons of gas, with proportionate amounts of engine oil and antifreeze. Tires cost tens of thousands of dollars apiece and need to be replaced after several months.

In front of this truck are members of the Ewald family, who just moved to Gillette for a job at a power plant.

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The burden and freedom of an evolving identity

Growing up in Portland, "I never imagined myself being anything but a city girl."  IMG_0617
Problems with my husband caused me to run away to a reservation in Utah.
I ended up here in Lapwai with my mom and dad.
"The disadvantage (of reservation life) is everyone knows your business. Everyone gets on you real hard. The upside is it's really close."
"I grew up going to sun dances (annual, four-day long ceremonial events) my whole life.
My kids (two sons living with their father in Portland) don't have that.
I feel they are at loss and wish they could be here with me."
I stopped going to the dances when I got married. I went to one while I was having problems in that relationship and it helped me make the decision to leave. It was a "healing experience."

— Natalie Emerson, 29, Lapwai

The cultural wisdom of our ancestorsIMG_0621 is not gone, but "it's way different now."
"Diabetes is a big problem – everyone eats ice cream and cake… When I was a kid (in Bridgeport, Wash.) we raised rabbits and grew asparagus. I used to fish there."

— Lee Plumley, Lapwai

‘This is probably as scary as they get’

At 91, Spokane Valley, Wash. resident Jean Nellavene Repp,IMG_0397 has experienced an array of dips and peaks in the American economy, including the Great Depressing of the 1930s.
She was born in 1917, the youngest of nine children and has spent much of her life — first as a child and then as a mother of four — on wheat farms in eastern Washington.
"I can remember when I came home from school and my mother told me the bank had closed," she recalls of the Great Depression of the 1930s.
"The banks closed and the stock market went caput and people who had been living pretty comfortably found themselves broke."
Repp continues: "Men worked for a $1 a day. Women – if  you could get a job for 50 cents a day, you were doing good."
"Sometimes you were lucky to have 2 cents to mail a letter."
Today the circumstances are different, but "This is probably as scary as they get. We went into World War II to make the rich guys rich again," she says. "We're already in a war; I don't know what were' going to do to get out of this."

Conversation with a horsewoman

IMG_0288 This weekend in Colbert, Wash. (about 15 miles north of Spokane), I spent a few minutes talking with Ann Kirk about horse behavior. Kirk, a horse trainer and Elk resident, is working with 30 quarter horses for an upcoming event at a ranch in Colbert.

Her method focuses on teaching a horse to control its emotions so it will pause and face what it is afraid of rather than running away. 

"From as far back as I remember, I always heard horses were just a money pit. I wanted to learn to make enough money working with them, to keep them," she says of getting into the trade.

The horse industry has been hit particularly hard in recent years, with increasing feed prices, among other things.
It's nice to see horse lovers can still make a living.

Old cars and politics…

The highlight of my stop in Ritzville was talking to the guys outside Tracy Jirava's auto shop. I stopped to look at a 1989 Camaro with its guts hanging out. (I own a third-gen. Camaro and have definitely been there!)

The car belongs to 19-year-old Eric Hille.

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"It's probably the most boring town you're ever gonna find," he says of Ritzville. But he concedes it's a good place to be American, though the  current state of our economy "is kind of ridiculous."
"I hope Obama fixes it."

Also outside the shop was retired World War II veteran and Ritzville City Council member Barney Streeter, 85.

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Serving in the sixth infantry division of the U.S. Army, Streeter spent time on the ground in North Africa and in Italy, including "five months of hell" on a beach in  Anzio.

"I fought for that old flag and I'm still proud," he says.

(Sadly, I'm not sure he'll be checkin' out my blog. "I'm old-fashioned. I don't go on the Internet," he tells me.)